History and Current Day Overview
of the Western Cape Wine Experience
Patrick Cardwell
‘This Cape is the most stately thing and the fairest cape we saw in the whole circumference of the earth’. - Sir Francis Drake (1580)
It would be remiss of me not to start with a trip to the past, to the planting of the first grape-vine cuttings in 1652 by Jan van Riebeeck, the first Governor of the Cape.
No doubt the first wine of unknown grape origin left much to be desired in the way of quality and finesse as the winemakers of the day struggled to come to terms with a very different and no doubt challenging growing environment far removed from the sense of agricultural order in Europe.
And so it was that the carefully nurtured wine and spirit industry came into being below the sheltering heights of Table Mountain over three centuries ago. During the years that followed Cape Town established itself as the Tavern of the Seas within the maritime community as sailors and captains alike enjoyed the warmth and hospitality of the Mother City.
Today the industry produces in excess of 780 million litres of wine through the collective efforts of industry members ranging from large multi-million litre estates to a multitude of wine growing co-operatives and a host of specialist and boutique estates many of which are family owned.
As such the matrix of wine producers in the Western Cape provides a tapestry of scenic and sensory delights as the enthusiastic wine lover traverses across the wine lands in search of experiences new and exciting as an expanding number of varietal offerings and wine styles become available.
Yet it is not all about the wines, although unquestionably the selection available lies at the heart of the overall wine route experience, it is the change of the seasons in a setting unequalled in grandeur as rugged mountains and sharply delineated peaks stand sentinel like above the lattice work of scenically attractive vineyards stretching across the slopes and valleys far below.
Add to this the stately grandeur of many a stately white walled and reed thatched homestead dating back over the centuries in Cape Dutch architectural style, all set about by aging oak trees and roses of all descriptions and colors, and you have some idea of what this holistic wine experience is all about…
No matter the season, a day spent meandering along one of the many clearly marked wine routes within the Western Cape is an awe inspiring and inspirational experience, complemented by the uniqueness of the wine estates themselves. These range from modern day state of the art wineries producing large volumes of affordable wine of consistent quality to smaller more specialized wineries tucked away up secret valleys and along roads less traveled that have achieved recognition for high quality wine in limited quality with selling prices to match.
In fact there is no end to a journey of wine exploration in the Western Cape with over 500 wineries to choose from spread over several clearly demarcated wine regions along the western slopes of the Hawekwa and Du Toits Kloof mountains to the sprawling vineyards extending eastwards south of the Hottentots Holland mountains to the historical frontier town of Swellendam.
As a collective these winegrowing areas encompass over 100 000 hectare and comprise of 80 official appellations each exhibiting a range of elements considered unique to each ward or district within it. Foremost of these is the soil type ranging from granite through shale to sandstone. Combined with the micro-climate for each area the all important French descriptive terrior comes into play as the deciding element in the selection of the most suitable grape varieties for each vine yard to ensure wine of the highest possible quality.
Of particular significance, as it constitutes the high point of any visit to one of the recognized wineries, is the varied ambience and warm hospitality one is afforded when calling in at any of the wineries. Tastings in many instances are ‘free’ while some charge a token fee associated with certain select wines or noteworthy vintages. Throughout the service is friendly and educational with no pressure to buy if one simply wishes to enjoy the pleasure of the occasion and the many wines available for tasting.
Add to this an excellent selection of tasting notes and brochures along with the enlightening comments of regular wine tasters in the definitive wine guide for the year and you have the full picture.
Grape wise there is much to choose from ranging through the spectrum of classical reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz (Syrah), Cinsaut and fairly recently Merlot while Pinotage a cross-pollination of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (Hermitage) came about as a distinctly unique local wine in the 1920’s.
On the white wine side Cape Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Semillon and Wiesser Riesling dominated the industry until Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc established themselves in the 90’s as the two most popular white table wines.
Add to this a suite of lesser known grape varieties such as Barbera, Fernao Pires, Furmint, Gamay, Petit Verdot, Pinot Blanc, Pontac, Sangiovese, Tebbiano and a number of lesser known varieties and you have a broad based selection of sensory experiences to look forward to both here and abroad in many markets including the United States.
So pick your season and go bearing in mind the austral summer from Nov to Feb is best if harvest time is what you are after while April and May are simply delightful months to soak up the autumn colors as the various vineyards compete for visual attention ahead of winter and the pruning season. Beyond this the vineyards remain dormant through to spring in September while the wineries feature full bodied red and fortified offerings over dainty white wines in cozy tasting rooms to add a glow to ones personal sense of wellbeing!